One of the primary focuses of naturals is the maintenance of a strong, healthy head of hair. If testimonies were to be shared regarding this topic, I am sure that a significant number of my fellow naturals would join me in declaring that this is by no stretch an easy feat. Heat, wind, pollution, and manipulation are just a few of the many factors that contribute to the deterioration of the health of natural hair.

Outside of the influences of nature, manipulation is just as unavoidable, since natural hair gets easily tangled and has to be touched in order to remove these tangles. Manipulation is also inevitable if you wish to maintain defined curls all week long as you may very well have to do some re-twisting in order to achieve the look.  

Whatever the cause, natural hair - at some point or another - will experience some level of damage. A protein treatment may be the most reliable solution to deal with those damaging dilemmas.   

What is a Protein Treatment?

A Protein Treatment is a treatment containing one or more protein-based ingredients that is used to strengthen and revitalize the hair. The treatment can be homemade or purchased over the counter.

Why would I need a Protein Treatment?

Since the hair is made up primarily of protein, then it stands to reason that it should be treated with protein.  Since hair is approximately 90% protein, applying a protein-based treatment will aid in replenishing the strength and vitality of the hair. Exposure to heat and chemicals such as color will cause structural damage to your hair and a protein treatment will help to restore the hair from its innermost layer called the medulla.

How do Protein Treatments Work?

Hair is composed of protein, made up of chains of amino acids. Hair damage can cause these chains to become broken, structurally changing the hair shaft. A protein treatment has different protein properties that attach directly to the hair follicle and harden the cuticle layer. This places a barrier around the follicle, which protects it from further damage.

These proteins bind to the hair cuticle and help temporarily rebuild any weakened areas. Protein-based products reinforce the hair shaft, and help it remain strong enough to fight breakage. 

Benefits of a Protein Treatment

1. Strengthens Hair

2. Stops Breakage

3. Supports Growth

Protein treatments actually fill in the holes in the hair’s cuticles, caused by chemical or environmental damage over time. If these holes or spaces are filled out, it will cause the hair to become strengthened. Stronger hair will be less brittle and fragile and ultimately result in a reduction or cessation of breakage. Less breakage equals more length retention.

DIY Protein Treatment Recipe

1 Avocado

½ Cup Coconut Milk

2 Tbsp. Honey

2 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

5 Drops Peppermint Oil

Method

Blend the ingredients together until smooth and creamy. Then, apply to the hair, being sure to generously saturate the strands. Cover with a plastic cap and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly.

Avocado

Beauty experts swear by avocado because, being oil and protein rich, it boasts the best combination of nutrients necessary to smooth and strengthen natural hair. Avocado is an excellent ingredient in this concoction for a number of reasons. Firstly, its protein contents contribute to the restructuring component of the treatment. Avocado is also very moisturizing and provides balance to offset the usually drying effects of protein treatments. The avocado provides moisture restoration and its thick, smooth, creamy texture gives the treatment that conditioner-like consistency. It attracts the hair strands and penetrates well.

Coconut Milk

Coconut Milk is also another protein-enriched ingredient that helps bring the DIY treatment to life. It is rich in protein and fatty acids, which makes it great for strengthening, conditioning and minimizing breakage. The milk contains oil from the coconut that helps to add slip and fluidity to the conditioner mix. It is great to blend with the avocado so as to balance out the texture and make it more easily distributable on the hair.

Honey

Honey is a natural humectant and is great for introducing moisture to the hair. A humectant works by attracting and retaining moisture. Since protein is typically drying to the hair, honey is a vital ingredient that aids in replacing some of that moisture. It is also an emollient so it helps to soften and smooth natural hair, which has a tendency to become frizzy. Additionally, honey is enriched with nutrients such as zinc, iron and vitamins B1, B2 and B3 which helps to nourish and improve the overall health of your hair.    

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Anything used on natural hair will receive bonus cool points if it boasts the addition of shine. That is the role that Extra Virgin Olive Oil plays in the mix. EVOO, as it is popularly referred to, is a highly moisturizing oil and is one of the heavier oils used in natural hair regimens. The EVOO adds slip to the treatment, making it more suitable to detangle the hair.

Peppermint Oil

This essential oil is added as a fragrance oil to bring a pleasant aroma to the mix. The oil also has a long history of being able to fight dry scalp and dandruff and also promoting hair growth. I personally love the tingle that it gives when applied, as it is very therapeutic to the scalp and causes a relaxing feeling.

The frequency with which a protein treatment is required varies from person to person. The severity of the damage may require treatments twice per month for one individual while another who has very healthy hair may need only occasional treatments. There is such a thing as protein overdose and I can personally attest to that, having suffered from the horror of the same. Remember also that it is very important to balance protein with moisture which will ensure that you don’t end up with dry, brittle hair that protein on its own tends to promote.

There are a number of over the counter protein treatments that are of outstanding quality such as the Aphogee Protein Treatment but there is something very fulfilling about making your own, with all natural, unprocessed ingredients.

Remember, the challenge of attacking damaged hair is just a refrigerator away…..search for the inner mixtress within you and keep those tresses in tip top shape.  

Candie's Natural Hairnamix was birthed a few months after Jamaican native Rossette "Candie" Allen began her natural hair journey in May 2010. She gears this column toward naturals, transitioning naturals, aspiring naturals and the naturally curious, sharing experiences, expertise and experiments while celebrating emancipation from chemical slavery.